This drawknife was specifically designed for the carver and fine woodworker who needs a tool to quickly and accurately unlock what they want from a block of wood. Try using your drawknife with the bevel facing "down" for heaviest, roughest removal, and with the bevel side "up" to plane your piece smoothly and accurately in preparation for further detailing or finishing. In our experience, no two carvers ever agree on technique, so feel free to find what works best for you.

When your drawknife comes to you, it has been fully sharpened, honed and and tested by us. Note that it will burnish the surface of the wood as it is used. Maintaining its edge (and all of your cutting tools) so that it will create this "shine" on a regular basis is quite simple if you follow these directions. The bevel edge on this blade is ground flat (just the same as our woodcarving knives). Using a small hand held stone or an EZE-Lap Model L (super fine or fine) or a leather stropping paddle, hone the edge, being careful to keep the sharpener flat on the bevel. Do this frequently! Careful light honing on a frequent basis will keep this, and all your tools, at the peak of perfection. It is quick, easy and creates much less wear on your tool edges. If your edge develops a burr from sharpening, pull the length of the blade edge through a block of scrap wood, very lightly stroke the flat back of the drawknife with your sharpener keeping it flat to the blade. Strop the edge very lightly to be sure the burr has completely flaked away/ You do not have to create a burr when you sharpen, no matter what your grandfather told you. You do not have to work through 3,4,5, or 6 grits of stone every time you sharpen. A few quick strokes with a fine stone, diamond sharpener, or strop, if done on a frequent regular basis, will work better. As you lose the shine on your work, HONE!!

John and Cinda Walls
Cousins/Knott's Knives